Few names evoke as much admiration as the Rolex Submariner. A symbol of precision and timeless design, these watches have graced the wrists of explorers, celebrities, and connoisseurs for generations. While modern iterations dazzle with technical advancements, it’s the vintage and neo-vintage models that whisper tales of horological heritage. Drawing from the collective passion of our editorial team – each member captivated by different eras – we present five Submariner references that blend history, craftsmanship, and enduring appeal.
Rolex Submariner Reference 5513
Emerging in 1962 as the refined successor to the 5512, the Reference 5513 became a cornerstone of Rolex’s dive replica watch legacy. Its allure lies in a harmonious dial layout, stripped of superfluous text, leaving only the essential “Submariner” and “100m = 330ft” inscriptions. This minimalist approach creates a visual purity cherished by enthusiasts. Over its 27-year production span, the 5513 evolved through three distinct dial eras: the opulent gilt finishes of the 1960s, the utilitarian matte surfaces of the 1970s, and the glossy modernity of the 1980s. Early gilt dials, with their radiant lacquered finishes and delicate fontwork, remain the holy grail for collectors, though their scarcity commands premiums upwards of €50,000. For those seeking accessibility, matte-dial variants offer a balance of patina and affordability, often found between €10,000 and €30,000. Beneath its Oyster case, the 5513 transitioned from the robust Caliber 1530 to the slightly upgraded 1520 – a testament to Rolex’s incremental perfectionism. Whether admired for its history or its understated elegance, the 5513 remains a masterpiece of horological storytelling.
Rolex Submariner Reference 1680
When Rolex unveiled the Reference 1680 in 1969, it marked a pivotal moment: the Rolex Submariner‘s first foray into practicality with a date complication. Early models, dubbed “Red Subs” for their crimson “Submariner” text, now evoke a sense of nostalgic rarity – though over 110,000 units produced reveal their surprising accessibility. Post-1976 iterations adopted white text, offering a subtler aesthetic that has aged gracefully. Beyond the iconic Cyclops lens, the 1680’s charm lies in its raised crystal profile, lending a domed, almost whimsical silhouette. Powered by the steadfast Caliber 1575, this model bridges vintage charisma with everyday functionality. While pristine Red Subs command €15,000-€20,000, white-text variants present an entry point near €10,000. It’s a piece that appeals not just to divers but to those who appreciate the poetry of a tool watch transitioning into legend.
Rolex Submariner Reference 14060
Debuting in 1989 as the 5513’s successor, the Reference 14060 straddles two worlds. Its tritium-lit dials (pre-1998) develop a creamy patina reminiscent of earlier eras, while later LumiNova models offer modern reliability. Purists debate the merits of its Caliber 3000 versus the upgraded 3130 in the 14060M, but both iterations retain the no-date symmetry that defines Submariner DNA. Critics may balk at its modest hour markers, yet this subtlety is precisely its strength – a quiet nod to understated tool-watch roots. With prices starting around €7,000 for well-loved examples, the 14060 series invites newcomers to vintage Rolex ownership without the daunting premiums of its predecessors. It’s a watch that whispers rather than shouts, perfect for those who value substance over spectacle.
Rolex Submariner Reference 16610LV
Celebrating the Submariner’s 50th anniversary in 2003, the Reference 16610LV – affectionately nicknamed “Kermit” – marries tradition with daring flair. Its forest-green aluminum bezel and Maxi dial, featuring bold luminescent plots, reimagined the Submariner for a new generation. Initially overlooked, it has since become a cult classic, symbolizing fake Rolex’s ability to innovate while honoring heritage. Beneath its sunburst dial ticks the legendary Caliber 3135, a movement synonymous with precision. Prices now range from €10,000 for weathered examples to €18,000 for mint-condition sets, reflecting its journey from underappreciated novelty to neo-vintage icon. For collectors, the Kermit isn’t just a watch; it’s a wearable piece of early-2000s horological rebellion.
Rolex Submariner Reference 1680/8
Concluding our list is an indulgence: the Reference 1680/8, a lavish 18k gold interpretation of the iconic 1680. Available in striking blue or enigmatic black dials, this 1969 creation elevated the Submariner from tool watch to objet d’art. Early blue variants, with their sun-faded turquoise hues and tropical undertones, are particularly mesmerizing. Housing the same Caliber 1575 as its steel sibling, the 1680/8 proves luxury need not compromise utility. While later references like the 16808 introduced higher-beat movements, the original’s warmth and craftsmanship remain unmatched. Entry-level examples begin near €20,000 – a testament to its enduring desirability. For those who believe a Submariner should shimmer as boldly as it performs, this golden relic is the ultimate prize.